The start of Western Australia's beautiful beaches.

To get down to Esperance we needed to back track 189km down to Norseman and then continue south for just over 200km.  So a long drive and we didn’t get away until 9:30am as we did Hamish’s on air lesson first before packing up and getting on the road.  It was quite hot packing up and we could feel the sting in the sun.  No wonder as it was 34 degrees when we hoped into the car!  Mind you we can’t complain.  We did really enjoy the heat again after all the cold of South Australia.  As the kilometres passed away the temperature gauge started to drop too.  It was a nice cool 22 degrees by the time we arrived in Esperance. 

Racing a train across the salt flat.

Quirky little sign.

We had found a caravan park and pre-booked it that morning.  We had planned to stay at another one on the beach but they charged for kids whereas this one didn’t and also had lush green grass.  The only negative was the number of people watching us reverse in and then set up.  Talk about making it obvious sitting down and just staring our way.  It makes you want to nail it first go and of course we did as it was a wide site with nothing to line up against.  I mean we are parked smack bang in the middle of the site though but that is what we wanted as there was a dirt patch in the centre and we wanted to step out onto the grass. 

Then it was time to unhitch and set everything up.  This took a little longer as our new neighbour came across and got talking to Jason.  I managed to get everything done that I could and had to wait for them to stop talking so Jason could drive the car out of the road.  I could have done it but it is always better to have someone watching just in case (and watching the kids who were out of the car by now).   We were set up in no time once Jason was back on the job and even though the temperature was quite cool it wasn’t windy or cold enough to need jumpers.

We went for a quick drive to get some pizza bases for dinner and to quickly see the waterfront.  I didn’t want to go for too long of a drive as we were a bit over the car and it was getting very close to dinner time.  What we did see though was very impressive and we can’t wait to get out and explore more.  It just won’t be tomorrow as our car goes into the service centre to have the recall issue sorted out.

So Friday our car was booked in to have its recall work done.  We found out we were the first cab off the rank and were essentially the guinea pig.  I found that surprising as I would have thought that more people would get them done straight away, but maybe Jason just found out before all the letters started arriving to the Western Australian owners.  I mean we still haven’t received our letter back in Queensland.  We had no idea how long it was going to take but hopefully no more than a day and we just decided to finish the week of school and relax around the van until it was done.

I managed to catch up on the blog and just as I was about to post it Jason remembered that he was told we had to get any pictures taken on the Super Pit tour approved before posting them in a public place.  Hmm I could have been told that three days ago and sent them off and had a response by now.  Needless to say the email with the photos only got sent off on Friday and we most likely won’t get a response until Monday.   Then around lunch we got the phone call that the car was done – brilliant so off Jason went to get it.  The kids decided now would be a great time to start fighting and complaining over things, just as I was trying to do up the document of Hamish’s school work for his teacher.  I really should have just given up and taken them to the playground.

Of course then to make matters even worse Jason called to say he was going to be a bit longer as when he went to start the car the engine light came on.  Now obviously that is a concern and he got the guys to look straight at it.  They obviously didn’t take it for a test run after doing the work.  I would have thought that should be a standard test after work done on the car engine.  In the end they just hadn’t tightened something properly so Jason came home.  Though he could hear a rattle so I sent him straight back (with Kayla) to get them to look at it.  However of course by the time the mechanic was sitting in the car, the noise was gone and it hasn’t come back, as is always the case!

On the trip to the mechanic Kayla fell asleep so our plan to go straight out and do a tourist drive was put on hold.  Then Hamish jumped up on the bed and we thought he was trying to wake Kayla but no he said he wasn’t feeling well and was tired.  True to his word he fell asleep.  Now we did sit back and enjoy the peace and quiet but then I was worried about Hamish and hoping he wasn’t getting sick.  His temperature was rising so we gave him some Panadol.  Well didn’t that fix everything and after about an hour he was up and wanting to go crabbing. 

This boy of ours has been obsessed with crabbing since we caught some in Ceduna.  The thing is we don’t have crab pots, or more to the point we didn’t have crab pots.  I think Jason saw the perfect opportunity to use Hamish to get the crab pots he always wanted, so off to the shops the boys went and back home they came with two new additions to the caravan.  This of course fuelled Hamish even more too actually go crabbing and he certainly wasn’t letting up.  We just headed to the jetty in town as I wasn’t keen for Hamish to be out in the cold and get wet.

The Esperance foreshore is a beautiful spot with beautiful green grass, a bit of history, fantastic playground and a nice walkway along it.  I spent most of the time in the park as Kayla just kept getting too close for comfort to the edge of the jetty.  The boys didn’t catch anything but Hamish informed me that they were in the wrong spot as a local had told them about a creek.  We actually already knew about it but it was too late to go there today.  So needless to say we will be going out there tomorrow.  We then returned to the van before it got too cold and it was time to start the normal night time routine.  With the only difference being that the kids didn’t go to bed as early due to their daytime nap.

Great to see lots and lots of green grass again.

Of course Kayla prefers to sit and play in the sand.

Not the best sleep last night, we forgot to shut up the van a bit more and it actually got quite cold.  Eventually all four of us ended up in our bed and for some reason the two smallest ones seem to take up the most room.  I have to admit though that I secretly love it as I know it isn’t going to be long until they grow up and will be too busy hanging out with friends to make time for their parents so I will try and enjoy every little moment now.  By the time we had made our coffee and stepped outside the van I heard the beautiful sound of children laughing and playing.  So off I send Hamish out to join in the fun.  Naturally Kayla follows.

It didn’t last long and Hamish was back with a sad face.  Apparently the kids called him a baby as he was on a scooter and not a bike.  Naturally as a parent you want to defend your child but I also believe that he needs to learn how to handle these situations so I explained to him that we didn’t bring his bike as we couldn’t fit it and just to tell the kids that.  He wasn’t keen so returned to inside the van, eventually the other kids returned and asked him to come outside and play.  All was quickly forgiven and we didn’t see Hamish again until they went out in the morning. 

I had given up doing a session of school with him that morning as I would rather Hamish get out and play with the kids whilst we are around some.  The other family are also travelling around for six months.  It is great to see that so many of us are out here doing it.  We decided we should get out and see some of Esperance so we packed up the car and headed out to do the 40km scenic drive.  I expected it to be good, but my gosh it blew away my expectations.  Especially as we came across pictures of the beaches I had seen in the brochures and naturally assumed they were in the National Parks.

The view one way from the lookout.

Then the other way.

Kayla got into the spirit of taking photos.

The kids had heaps of fun paddling in the water and running around all over the place.  As we went further along the drive they seemed to be stripping down more and more until eventually Hamish was just in his undies in the car as he had soaked his shirt and shorts.  I couldn’t care in the least.  We were all out having fun and due to the million steps up and down to the beaches we were also certainly getting some exercise in.  The final stop on the tour was Pink Lake but it wasn’t pink.  It normally is but we were told at the moment it has no water in it and they are mining the salt so it isn’t pink.  I was so looking forward to seeing a pink lake.  It isn’t something you see every day.  Still, it gives us a good reason to come back another time.

Loving the freedom of the beach.

Trying to capture the blue water.

Making our way back down the beach.

Looking down onto the beach.

Beach after beach was just beautiful

We went down and explored this one.

A sheltered one we went back to another day.

Our final beach before heading to the Pink lake.

After a quick trip back to the van to hang out the washing I had put on, we put some dry clothes on the kids and headed out again.  The plan was to find a coffee shop for morning tea and visit the information centre.  Well I thought there was a coffee shop near the information centre so we headed there, but I was not fully right.  There is one but it was closed.  So we went to the information centre and walked out with a pile of booklets on the south west of Western Australia.  Jason also asked about our chances of getting a spot in the National Parks and the lady did not hold high hopes for us. 

The waves smashing against the rocks.

The water wasn't cold at all.

This beach felt so magical.

Certainly got our exercise for the day with a few sets of stairs like this.

Just magical.

Miss Kayla minus her shorts.

Master Hamish having a blast (minus his shorts too).

I envy the houses with these views.

Spot the Pajero.

The not so pink "Pink Lake".

Apparently the campgrounds in there are stunning and well worth it for their wonderful location.  The only downside is that you can stay quite a while (which means people don’t move on after one or two nights) and there are only a few sites big enough for caravans.  If you want to even have a remote chance of getting one, you need to be there lined up at 7am and even then you only get one if someone is leaving.  I don’t mind getting up early and going out there, if I knew I was going to get a spot, but to do all that packing up to be turned away and then come back into town and hope to get a spot back in a caravan park and then set up again sounds like a lot of effort.  So we decided we will go out there tomorrow and decide if we think it is worth a try or if we are happy enough with a day visit.  We seem to be catching up more and more with the annual migration of nomads so we are fighting more for these unique and wonderful spots.

Now we had heaps of reading material it was time to find a good coffee and as it happens we ran into a lovely gentleman from our caravan park who has given us heaps of tips and he recommended a French Bakery in town.  Well we drove around town and couldn’t find it but in the meantime I spotted a sign for another coffee shop and it looked like it had a playground near it.  So we headed that way and it was an awesome find.  It is sort of overlooking a little harbor and they had a few kids’ toys on the lawn out the front with tables on the lawn and verandah overlooking the view.  Well the kids had a blast playing with the toys and Jason and I enjoyed our coffee, cake and down time.   We actually had to ask them to come over and have their baby chinos and chips we had ordered them and they sat at their own little table.  The food was delicious too so I highly recommend if you are ever in Esperance to go and try out Taylor’s Beach Bar & Café.

Loving having some new toys.

Great little coffee shop.

This kids drinks.

They didn't want to join us at our table.

Next door to the coffee shop was a big park that had a miniature train running around it.  Well of course we had to go on that and it was actually really fun and the kids and Jason even went on it for a second time.  Then it was off to mini golf which always brings out the competitive side in Jason and I, but of course he beat me again.  I was so disappointed as I was leading the majority of the way too.  By now we decided to return to the van for a bit of a rest and to work out what we needed food wise and do the shopping.  Jason volunteered to take Kayla food shopping whilst I stayed home and did a school session with Hamish.  I was very happy with this arrangement and even managed to wash the curtains in the van - goodbye spaghetti bolognaise handprint!

Someone was excited for a  train ride.

About to go through the tunnel.

Setting off again.

Jason in winning form.

Hamish doing his own thing.

The rest of the afternoon was relatively quiet with our friends Ian and Gwen (the couple from Airlie Beach) rolling in and setting up two sites down from us.  We are very lucky as they have offered to look after the kids for us one night so we can go out for dinner.   As they had just driven all the way down from Kalgoorlie we weren’t going to ask that they do it that night but we asked if Sunday night was okay.  Hopefully we can wear them out Sunday and they will just fall into bed and be good kids for them.

Last minute we decided to try our luck crabbing in the creek the locals told us about.  This was not a wise idea as I think you need to actually put them out in the middle of the creek.  Instead we put them off the boat ramp’s little jetty.  This ended up with one of the cords to one of our pots being cut off as it got caught in a boat propeller and dragged up the boat ramp on the back of the boat!  Lucky we got it back and realistically we know we have to come back and put in the kayak to get them out into the deeper water more.  Also Hamish’s friends turned up and naturally Hamish no longer wanted to hang with us but go over and fish with them.  Eventually we called it quits and returned to the van park.

Our kids proceeded to have showers and then go out and play in the only little sandy patch around.  I didn’t mind though as they were having heaps of fun and we got to chat with Ian and Gwen between making sure the kids were behaving and running back to check on dinner.

Sunday saw us extend our stay here at the caravan park again.  Ian and Gwen had offered to babysit the kids for us so we could go out to dinner together so we had decided that we really didn’t want to pack up and leave the next morning after that.  Our plan of attack for the day was to go out and check out the National Park and their campgrounds to see if we will move out there instead.  After a false start as I had forgotten to unplug the laptop, we were on the road and I was madly buying the yearly National Parks pass on the mobile phone as in the long run it will work out cheaper.

We had very high expectations of the Cape Le Grand National Park as people had informed us the beaches were just stunning and one called Lucky Bay had the whitest sand, apparently better than Whitehaven Beach in Queensland.  So naturally being a Queenslander I had to check this out to see if this so called beach was better than ours.   We also thought we would check out what the campgrounds were like and what our chances of getting a camp spot was.  Our first stop was Le Grand Beach and there were plenty of free campsites available, so I have no idea what the information centre was on about.  I think we counted seven in total.  They were also nicely tucked away in the bush behind the sand dune so you were protected from the elements.

The sign says it all.

Another beautiful spot.

Yep - just wish cars couldn't drive on it.

Apparently you can nearly drive back into town along it.

The view from the lookout.

Next we checked out the beach and it was very beautiful, but again in my eyes it is ruined by the fact that you can drive on it.  Maybe my opinion of this wouldn’t have been so bad if there wasn’t a silly young couple hooning around being silly with their 4WD on the beach.  I wish there could be a balance of cars on the beach and leaving a good section for people to enjoy the beach and not worry about idiots being silly in cars.  In fairness I am sure the majority of people are sensible but we had to get the one that wasn’t at the same time we were visiting.  The water was also a bit chilly for swimming so we decided to head to Lucky Bay instead as we had been told it was better for young kids.

One loan person on the beach.

The National Park is beautiful and there is even a walk up a Frenchman’s Peak that you can do, but it was way too long for us to do with the kids.  I could imagine though that the view would be fantastic up there.   We also did a quick stop in at another little cove that looked so peaceful and was right next to whistling rock.  It was a bit of an effort to get down to the beach so we kept on going.  Then we saw it, Lucky Bay, and from a distance the beach sand did look white and the water calm and perfect.   First stop - to check out the campgrounds and they were packed with people and I personally thought that it wasn’t as quiet and calm like Cape Le Grand Beach.

So down to the beach we went.  There weren’t many car parks but we did manage to score one once someone left.  If I am going to be brutally honest, the first impression of Lucky Bay from the moment we walked onto it wasn’t brilliant.  I think so many people talked it up that our expectations were really high.  Maybe if you drove along the beach (yes they let you drive along this one too – which to me means you can’t describe it as “unspoilt”) it might be prettier and quieter around the other side.  The sand was also hard packed and not that soft powdery sand.

Lucky Bay.

With its own coffee shop.

The campground end of the beach.

For those without 4WD, or don’t want to take theirs on the beach, unless you are willing to walk a long way, you are stuck at this end.  You walk onto this yucky green/brown coloured sand where water has been sitting for what seems like a long time.  There is seaweed still on the beach, again the more you go around to the left it lessons but to the right (in front of the campground) it was thick.  The worst bit was when the kids dug up the sand near the campground end.  It stunk and not just a little passing smell, it really stunk.  There is also the coffee shop on the beach which is a novel idea but the constant hum of the generator is in the background which detracts from the serenity.

Trying to capture the beauty of the beach!

Look what Kayla has spotted.

If they had only been on a better part of the beach this could have been a nice photo.

Now that I have said all that, if you move past this and go closer to the water, the sand is white, beautiful and the waters were calm which is great for the kids to swim in.  We were even spoilt with getting a Kangaroo on the beach photo when a mother and joey hopped along.  Not to mention all the entertainment we got from seeing the tourists take a million photos and then selfies with the Kangaroo.  The kids had a great time playing on the beach and Jason chatted to a fellow traveller who was towing with an older Pajero.  Our trip was cut short though as the clouds came over and it started to rain.  You should have seen the mass exodus of vehicles off the beach!  By then we felt we had seen enough and were more than happy to return to town.  Our general consensus is that the National Park is beautiful and the beaches are quite nice, however do not tell a Queenslander that they are unspoilt and better than Whitehaven Beach – they are not.

You still had to admit it was pretty.