McCulloch Family Giant Leap: Holiday Hotspot Port Elliot

Time to pack up and move on again. It seems to come around so fast. As I was putting things away the day before I had realised that we were missing a bowl which was kind of a big thing when we only had four to start with and we all have oats or cereal each morning. Jason assured me he hadn’t left it at the bbq and ducked out to Big W to get another one. On his return I was talking to the other family leaving and you will guess where she had seen a bowl… at the bbq! So off Jason went and there it was, along with another one of our large plates. Guess we should always double check.

We were only driving over the range to Port Elliot so didn’t want to leave early but had to be gone by 10am as they were going to be full that night. I took down all he Christmas decorations and left them behind, always a depressing job. The drive was only short but we had to cross a range and it felt like it just kept going and going and the fuel economy wasn’t so good. Funny how you don’t take photos of those ones, but we made it to the top easily, just dropping back to 60km/hour. By the time we pulled up at the Port Elliot Show Grounds the fuel economy had dropped back down to a reasonable amount.

We had decided to stay at the Port Elliot Show Grounds as it was only $20 a night as opposed to the $80 plus a night we were quoted at the caravan parks in Victor Harbor. We were met by Bruce the caretaker and he is a lovely man who was so welcoming. Jason and I started to discuss if it would be better to base ourselves in one location for a lengthy period of time (2 weeks or more) and just do day trips, rather than the constant pack up and set up when it is such a short distance away. We might give it a go on one of the other peninsulas to see how it works out.

Kayla was really tired so I took her for a quick drive to get her to sleep and got my first glimpse of the coastline around Port Elliot. I couldn’t wait to get back to tell Jason all about it. Kayla easily fell asleep and obviously needed it as she had a massive two and a half hour nap so we got to relax. As it was cold I sat outside with my chair half in the sun so I could warm up my legs. It worked but then stupid me ended up with sunburnt legs so I was not impressed that twice in one month I had gotten sunburnt.

Looking down on Horseshoe Bay.

Little rocky outcrop.

Trying to show the number of shipwrecks in the area.

Back towards Victor Harbor.

In my defence I was chatting to Bruce who pulled his chair over. He used to drive the Greyhound buses between Adelaide and Perth so had some great stories regarding travelling the Nullarbor and to not drive at night as he has seen many a car damaged by hitting wombats! Never thought there would be wombats along there. It must be lonely when travelling on your own, either that or very peaceful. He is only at the showgrounds until April when he will head off for another trip.

To make the most of the little bit of the day we had left, we went out exploring and decided to drive down to Goolwa and check out the mouth of the Murray River since we never got there on our last trip nearly two years ago. It was a great sight to see and the tourist boards actually explained everything really well and we learnt a fair bit about it all and how they are trying to keep the mouth of the river open. I really enjoyed driving through the main street areas of Port Elliot, Goolwa and Middleton as they are so beautiful with the preservation of their heritage buildings. The evening was seen out by walking through the markets at Horseshoe Bay.

The mouth of the Murray River.

Decorating cookies at the markets.

Horseshoe Bay.

Having fun before Kayla fell off.

I don’t know what we are going to do after this trip and actually have to be somewhere at a certain time. We have just gotten so use to taking our time to get going. We headed straight into Victor Harbor and to the Information Centre. I haven’t been to a bad Information Centre yet, but this one would have had to have been the friendliest and most passionate one we have stopped at so far. They were fantastic and we got a lot of information and had a discussion about if I had towed yet or not.

Obviously I had to admit I hadn’t and said I wanted to try first on the Nullarbor – maybe the straightest road. Talk about scare me off as they said the road trains create so much wind pull (that we knew already) that it isn’t the best place to learn. Hmm I think I will have to re-think where I make my first attempt. When it comes down to the actual moment I always come up with a good excuse, too much traffic, too hilly, bit windy etc. I am very lucky in that Jason doesn’t mind and is happy driving. Maybe he feels safer too having himself behind the wheel.

We had some morning tea whilst waiting for the horse drawn tram to start running for the day. There was no way we weren’t going to do this with the kids and they were so excited to catch it over to Granite Island. We sat up top to take in the view and noticed how the water was not very deep but then it wasn’t high tide either. Two guys paddled their Kayaks under the bridge and told us all of a pod of fifty or so Dolphins off the island near the pier.

Making our way across.

She could have watched the horse all day.

The old tram.

Turning around.

Once off the tram we had a hard time dragging Kayla away. She was just fascinated with the horse and I think she could have stood there and just watched if for hours. When we did manage to get her away we went and spotted the dolphins before making our way to the penguin centre. The kids loved seeing them but it was sad to hear the story of how much the numbers have dropped. All the Penguins there have been hurt (dogs, kids, boats, other wildlife) and can’t be released back into the wild as they would not survive.

The numbers have slightly increased the last two years, but the centre is no longer allowed to take the babies that are bred there and released back into the wild, so they have to take the eggs out of the nest. Though forty or so compared to over a thousand a few years ago is really not much. The volunteers are very passionate about their work and would love to have the island closed off at night or more done to try and prevent the impact humans have to the islands population. I think it is sad that the local government isn’t doing more to protect them or find the balance between keeping the island accessible whilst building back up the population.

Cute little things.

Feeding time and a great talk on what they do.

After this we went for a walk around the island, stunning views and a relatively easy walk once you have completed the 112 steps up to the top (yes I counted them). I must admit I did get frustrated by the number of people not keeping to the main tracks as this is what ruins the native wildlife and plants, not to mention dangerous with the sheer drop offs. We made it back to the tram stop just in time to catch the next horse drawn carriage back to the mainland. It actually isn’t far and you can easily walk it but the tram is cool and gives Hamish a break from the walk.

Having a break from the walk.

Love the different colours on the rocks.

Looking back to Victor Harbor.

One of the worn rocks.

Beautiful coastline.

Our luck for the day ran out when we got back to the car as to find out we had a parking ticket! It was only $46 but still not what we really wanted. Neither of us saw the signs when we parked but I spotted them when walking back to the car and couldn’t believe we missed them. They were everywhere and so in your face. Guess we just got use to not having to pay for parking again after a week in Aldinga Beach. So back to the van we went for lunch since we now couldn’t afford to eat out (ha ha).

The rest of the day was spent hanging around the showgrounds before heading out after dinner for a walk along the waterfront. We didn’t get to have our walk as Kayla fell asleep, so we decide to take advantage of the fact she was asleep just after 7pm and return to the van for some down time.

We were woken early again by the wind blowing the awning around. As much as we tried to ignore it we did eventually drag ourselves out of bed and pulled it in. It wasn’t too early but since it was only 5:20am we hopped straight back into bed to get some more sleep and where it was way warmer. When we finally dragged ourselves out of bed it was still miserable windy and cold weather but we were determined for it not to stop us from getting out. The Information Centre had told Jason about a little place you could see seals from just outside of Goolwa.

So off we went back to Goolwa and out to the Murray River barrage. It was very cold and windy by now and I really hoped that they were going to be there to make it worthwhile for the kids. There were about four of them with two fast asleep and another two out in the water swimming around. The kids really weren’t that interested but it was definitely worth going out in the cold to see. On the way home we stopped in town for a picnic morning tea that we had packed. It was nice to have a homemade cake and coffee next to a playground that the kids could burn off some energy on.

Walking out to the lock.

One of the lazy seals.

A more energetic one.

Next stop was Victor Harbor to pay the parking fine but of course they are closed until after New Year’s. We can pay it online at least but have to wait four business days for it to be entered into the system. We will have to try and remember to actually pay it otherwise I am sure it will end up being a lot more. After lunch in the van, we decided that since the weather wasn’t brilliant we would have a cook up for future morning teas. We made another cake and some chocolate chip biscuits. I even decided that we should give a bag of biscuits to Bruce the caretaker as he is so lovely and helpful.

A few more vans arrived and a camper trailer set up near us which provided us with entertainment watching them set up. It was actually quite fast and we were really impressed at how nice it looked. Being a hard floor one it was more a matter of just folding down the roof and locking it into place. Setting up the outdoor area and covering it in canvas took a bit longer but overall it looked like a really nice set up that could go anywhere. Best of all it was made in Brisbane! After dinner we went for another drive and saw some of the other caravan parks. There were just packed in like sardines with a million kids on the jumping pillow. We are so glad for our nice quiet showground site.

For our last full day in the area we wanted to check out the little main area of Port Elliot before catching the Cockle steam train to Goolwa. It is a pretty little town with some beautiful old buildings and lots of new modern holiday homes. Port Elliot and Victor Harbor actually join up in my opinion so you are close to the main tourist areas but don’t have the craziness of it.

Lovely old church.

One of the old building in Goolwa.

Just so pretty.

Council was obviously not big in the ole days.

We stopped at the bakery for a yummy morning tea before walking round a bit more and then making our way back to the train station. It was so cool seeing the old steam train and carriages pull in and then hopping on board for a ride. It is so well preserved and the extra touch of the conductor coming along to hole punch your tickets really made you feel like you were back in the old days. It is a scenic trip with so much to look out at and everyone waves as you go by.

So excited waiting for the train.

In she rolls.

First class.

Second class.

The original plan was to have lunch in Goolwa at the beautiful old pub but Kayla wasn’t too happy so we thought it probably wouldn’t be worth it and that we would just catch the train straight back again after a forty five minute wait. There is heaps to do there, like a brewery so you could easily fill in a few hours just walking around the town. For the trip back we hopped in a different carriage. This one was more like first class!

Hamish waving to people.

Kayla wasn't so sure at the start.

Going through Middleton.

Passing through a paddock.

First class - so well restored.

When we arrived back in Port Elliot there were quite a few people waiting to board to head to Victor Harbor. I was the first one attempting to get out and I didn’t even make it to the door before people tried to barge on. When met with us trying to get off they didn’t even try to move out of the way. I then announced we had a stroller we needed to get off and again they still all just looked at me and tried to get past. Eventually I just pushed through, trying to keep the kids following me and Jason had to push his way through with the stroller. I just don’t understand where general manners have gone where you wait for everyone to disembark before hopping on. The adults were the worst offenders.

I love being a tourist, but I have to admit I hate over popular tourist places, so what do I expect being down here in peak season. It was even worse when trying to food shop that afternoon. It was really everyone out for themselves and it was nothing for people just to stop and block the way. Even when you used your manners to try and get past they just looked at you and kept standing back blocking the way. So you definitely must come to this area to visit, but my recommendation is to do it outside the peak school holidays! It was nice to return to our quiet showgrounds were there was plenty of space.

That afternoon we met another family from Western Australia who had headed off for a year trip too. Unlike us they had rented out their home and now they are going to have to cut their trip short as the tenant has trashed their place and it has to go to court. I really felt for them as they have to go home soon to sort it all out and attend court. We are so glad we have sold our place as that was my worst nightmare.

The plan had been to go down to the Flying Fish takeaway shop for fish and chips for dinner on the beach. By the time we really thought about it the time had gotten away from us and it was already 7pm. So instead Jason and Kayla ducked out to get dinner whilst I got Hamish to have a shower. Bruce the caretaker had recommended it and it was delicious and so worth it. We had yummy calamari, prawn cutlets and of course chips. We really enjoyed our time here and it is a beautiful spot. If only we had come outside school holidays, you could nearly say it is perfect.